Today started like my typical Saturday in St. John’s. I woke up and got ready to head to The Watershed. But today wasn’t like most days in the tiny town just outside the city. It was Christmas in the Harbour. You noticed the difference as soon as you drove around the point and towards the corner store. Lights were up, snow was piled high, and there was an air of excitement in the place.
The event is a collective effort from the town. Local art, food, and friendliness is showcased all in the name of the Christmas spirit and hometown love. I was excited to be a part of it, and started my tour off in my favourite way—with a hot cup of coffee and a sandwich served by some of my favourite people.
My favourite seat had been taken by someone who clearly hadn’t slept in like me, so I sat in one of my favourite seats in the back of the café. It was busier than normal. Locals were coming in with flyers and more townies than usual were ordering eggnog lattes and coffee for the cold morning. I was excited to see it busy. Nothing makes me happier than people realizing that it’s worth the drive to go to The Watershed.
After chatting with Karen and the others I headed off to walk around town to see what else would be showcased.
My first stop was at a little shed right next to the coffee shop. It was filled with paintings that captured the feel of Petty Harbour. The crab pots in the spring, the stunning sky in the summer, and the boats you come to love so well.
I chatted with the artist and his friend for a little while. They asked about where I came from, and I learned that she had come here for work some years ago for two weeks, but ended up never leaving. She’s been living in the Petty Harbour ever since.
I learned about the artist who was planning to open his studio in the summer, I saw some of his sketches, and left knowing I would be back to purchase one.
The next stop was at the home of a “CFA.” She’d only been in the harbour for a few weeks, but been an artist for years. She loves the fresh air, birds, and making sure her dogs are happy. She is a blunt woman. Speaking exactly what she thinks. We talked about her time at NSCAD and how it had opened her up to a world of new ideas.
She told me that whatever work I’d done in Nova Scotia, I had to do here. I loved her artwork and crafts, and I loved her honesty, but she didn’t want me to take any pictures. I left with a lot of things to think about.
I walked across the bridge and stopped for the obligatory “from the bridge” photo. I saw Bernard out shoveling snow from the home of Harbour House. My first ever apartment. One of my favourite places on earth. We chatted for a little bit, and then said our goodbyes. We’d see each other next week at dinner with him, Shelley, and Jean.
Herbie's Shoppe was the next place on my list. A store filled with history and charm. They served me cookies and chatted. I fell in love with a bright red hat. One of the owners proudly showed Pam Chafe’s paintings that were hanging in the store. The shoppers were chatty—they discussed the snow, the local work, old age pension, and the government. I listened more than anything. I was part of all of all the wonderful, but it didn’t seem quite real.
I knew I didn’t have a whole lot of time, so I trudged through the snow and down to the Island Rooms where Leo was cooking fish stew. I’d been worried/excited to try the fish stew. I’d never liked a bowl of fish chowder in my life. However, I was determined to give it a try. I sat down with some townies, and we ate what was one of the best fish concoctions that I’ve ever tried.
We didn’t feel like strangers in that moment. We felt like friends. We talked about the beauty of the Harbour and sat in that little shed just enjoying each other’s company.
It’s a tiny little town. A town I never would have guessed that I’d fall in love with. But as I had driven there that morning, I’d thought to myself how every single season I’d told myself it was the prettiest time to be there. Because I love Petty Harbour in the spring, I love Petty Harbour in the summer, I love Petty Harbour in the fall.
But then there is Petty Harbour in the snow and Petty Harbour with Christmas lights.
It’s special. It’s not too crowded, it takes work to explore, but the beauty is everywhere. The people still welcome you with open arms. It’s pure and utter awesome.
Because Petty Harbour is a not-so-secret but definitely wonderful world. And I’m so thankful I get to experience it.
