When I was thinking about moving to Newfoundland, I read things on the internet, asked people with connections to the province what they could tell me, and (don’t judge me) watched a lot of Republic of Doyle. I knew it was kind of like a jump in the dark. I knew why I wanted to move here, but I knew it was kind of crazy because I hadn’t visited in 10 years. So, what I’ve compiled is a list of things I would have told myself about moving to Newfoundland, if the information had been available.
1. It’s not for the faint of heart:
My sister told me this when I was preparing to move, and I’ve learned that it was a true statement when it applied to the weather, travel off the island, potholes, or just about anything you can imagine. I think about that advice all the time. It's not an easy place to live. It's so much more than the happy to go lucky place people say it is. It has dark times, and rough days. The politics are hilarious. But you should try to get to know it with everything you have.
2. You will see local celebrities all the time, but no-one will make a big deal out of it:
Mark Critch downtown with his girlfriend? No big deal. Alan Doyle buying coffee at The Rocket? Who cares. Republic of Doyle actors? They run for politics. Musicians? Say hi after the show. Artists? Chat away. World famous chefs? Just say hi. Journalists and talk show hosts? Just pretend you’re not a fan girl. Bob Hallet? He might end up sitting at the table next to you in his restaurant.
I’ve seen so many people I admire and respect. At first I fangirled, but now I try and remain calm on the outside. Newfoundland supports their talented, but they don’t fuss. It’s awesome.
3. It’s worth going to the outports:
I know I talk about Petty Harbour a lot—but hey, I lived there. It’s my Pictou of Newfoundland. But I’ve been out to Brigus, Burlington, and a few others and they are amazing. The people are welcoming, the views are second to none, and they hold something special that you won’t find in St. John’s.
4. Moose are a real danger:
You know all the Canada and Moose jokes? They are because of Newfoundland. You won’t see them a lot, but you will learn to be scared of hitting one. You will avoid the highway after dark. You will consider purchasing higher insurance in case you hit one. You will warn mainlanders about them. They won't listen. You will get slightly offended at the moose jokes when you go home. Get over it.
5. Your taste buds will be opened to a whole new world:
Alex's Kitchen is one of my favourite places to eat.
I loved food before I moved to Newfoundland, but St. John’s has opened so many doors. If you live here for any amount of time, you will boast about Raymond’s being the best restaurant in Canada, but that’s not where it ends. The Merchant Tavern, Adelaide Oyster House, The Sprout, Tavola, and so much more will leave you wishing that you were a millionaire. Read the reviews and talk to the locals. Try toutons. Eat seal. Give moose a chance. Be willing to give every place at least one chance because the food is downright mind blowing. My wallet cannot handle it. Which brings me to…
6. It’s even more expensive than you think:
Rent? Heat? Food? It all costs more than the internet tells you. It’s going to be really hard to make ends meet as a single person. Not because you have a bad job, but because making it on your own in a city with debt, good food, and limited self control is tough. Save your money to get off the island because sometimes homesickness will hit so bad you will need to get home no matter what. Fresh vegetables will become a luxury in the winter, so learn where to buy them. Support the Farmer's Market as much as possible, but when it shuts down Costco will probably be your best bet for fresh food.
7. It’s even more beautiful than the pictures:
It really is. You will never get used to the rugged land and the sound of crashing waves. You will actually be moved when you go out on the East Coast Trail. The locals aren’t as amazed over icebergs, but they are worth freaking out about. Don’t always take your camera. Enjoy it. Remember it. Love it.
8. You have to get used to being an outsider:
You know how Newfoundland is known for its amazing people? It’s true they are friendly, but it’s going to be different than when you visit for a short time. When you move to Newfoundland you need to get used to being called a CFA, you need to get used to being called a Mainlander, and you will need to learn that they have tight-knit culture that can be hard to break into. Thing is, it will be what you make it. Yes it will be hard, but accept that you’re an outsider for now, and learn everything you can about the island in the meantime.
9. Listen to Open Line, Back Talk and Night Line :
This will be your resource for the culture and the beat of the province. Anybody and everybody calls in, but it’s an amazing part of Newfoundland. Don’t laugh at it (Okay, you can sometimes.) Just appreciate the open forum for people to call. Call in sometime. It’s fun.
10. People drink. A lot:
It’s a part of the culture. It’s nothing like people who drink in your hometown. They get drunk at work events, on weekends, and sometimes in between. But it’s different than on the mainland. They can hold their own. It’s where they sing and dance. Appreciate it as part of Newfoundland. When people from the mainland ask you if there is a drinking problem on the Island, try not to be offended, because they don't live here and they won't get it.
11. You will have a lot of coffee options:
Every kind of roast is available. You will find yourself disliking Tim Hortons. Don’t turn your nose up at it, though. You will learn to appreciate every shop for different reasons. Try them all. Give them second chances when you have a bad cup of coffee the first time. The Watershed has the best view. Fixed can make a mean cup of coffee. Rocket staff will learn your order. Jumping Bean has the best lattes. Coffee Matters is open the latest if you need a place to work that's not inside the confines of your apartment.
12. Music is a big deal:
There will be music everywhere. Go see the people you want to see. Don’t fangirl. Buy as much as you can from Fred’s Records. They can order it in if they don’t have it. Go downtown in the middle of the day and listen. Go downtown late at night and watch the couples dancing to "Sonny’s Dream" at O’Reilly’s. People might laugh at you if you think GBS is the best thing ever. They’re just a fraction of the talent here. Support local music in every way you can.
13. Forget everything you know about fog and wind, because Newfoundland has them on levels only people who live here will understand.
People will tell you that they have fog and wind too. Just smile and nod. They do not understand that airports shut down for days. They do not understand that the wind at Cape Spear is the norm. When people tell you that they understand, just carry on.
14. Get on Twitter:
Follow people. They have lively conversations. If you see them in person, remember you don’t actually know them. Drop in a comment or two, but don't feel offended if they don't respond. Kim will talk to you about Open Line. James is snarky about politics. Ro! has a heartbreaking story, but she has a lot of courage. Melissa is funny. Drew writes good stuff. Jessica talks about yummy stuff. Maggie will make you feel included.
15. Go to Bell Island:
It might make you seasick to take the ferry, but it’s very cool. Climb the lighthouse, see the mines, and visit the convenience store.
16. Don’t forget about Labrador:
They are a part of Newfoundland too. Listen to them. Remember they are as important as St. John’s. It's Newfoundand and Labrador, not just Newfoundland.
17. Shop downtown:
I know, you should shop local everywhere. But most things you need are downtown, and a lot of it isn’t much more expensive. Go to Johnny Ruth and Living Planet, Home on Water Street, Twisted Sister, and Travel. It’s worth the hassle of parking. There is free parking at Atlantic Place on weekends.
18. It’s not what you see in the tourist ads:
There is more to the place than Signal Hill and Cape Spear. Explore the little-known places. Climb Engine Rock. Blueberry pick in the Goulds. Visit Middle Cove Beach in the Winter. Find a place no-one knows about.
19. You will appreciate it more than you thought possible:
You might feel homesick 9 days out of 10, but you will get through the worst nights. You will fall in love with the landscape and people. It’s going to be okay.
